Go beyond sightseeing — walk, taste, listen and connect.
The signature Meghalaya experience. You descend roughly 3,500 steps from Tyrna village into the Umshiang gorge, cross two steel suspension bridges over water the colour of glass, and arrive at a bridge that villagers have been growing from fig roots for close to two centuries. Take the local guide, take twice as much water as you think you need, and if you can spare a night, sleep at Nongriat.
Krang Suri is the rare Meghalaya waterfall where swimming is not only allowed but organised — life jackets at the counter, a supervised pool and changing rooms. The water is startlingly blue on a sunny winter day.
The Umngot at Dawki and Shnongpdeng is so clear that in winter the boats cast shadows on the riverbed and appear to hover. Go between November and March, and go at first light before the queues form.
Meghalaya sits on one of Asia's largest cave systems. Mawsmai is lit and walkable in twenty minutes; Arwah is longer, quieter and has visible marine fossils in the walls. Both are doable in ordinary shoes.
Jadoh (rice cooked in pork blood and spices), dohneiiong (pork with black sesame), tungrymbai (fermented soybean) and pumaloi. We take you to the kitchens locals actually eat in, and there is a full vegetarian spread for those who need it.
An early start rewarded with mist sitting in the valley folds and light moving across the grass hills. Our drivers know which bends to stop at and at what time. Bring a windcheater — the ridges are exposed.
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